Though Sweden is not exactly what most Americans would envision as a gardening Mecca, it does feature some exciting landscapes. Since my husband’s entire family lives there, I had no choice but to worship wildflowers under the midnight sun in August (2001). Every Swede seems to adore flowers; they adorn everything from candles to curtains to cakes. However, in terms of garden design, I have to admit, I returned glad to be an American. Regardless of taste, gardens abound in the States. Not necessarily so in other places. In Stockholm, for example, most of the city structures are apartment buildings built on rock.[1]

Consequently, very few residential gardens even exist. Of course, who’s complaining? This enchanting city really is a Scandinavian Venice. What follows is almost stream-of-consciousness and highly subjective. Wanted to get my impressions down before they faded like poppies.

We started off in the middle of Sweden in a cold valley near a big lake due East of Lillehammer, Norway (remember those gorgeous Winter Olympics?). Old stone fences add an interesting sculptural character to the Dalarna region. Farmers wrestled rough rocks from the ground before the industrial revolution shifted the nation’s economy away from agriculture, to Nokia. The endless landscape of birch and pine forest carpeted with moss & lichen is extraordinarily calming, if you happen to avoid encountering one of the many bear that also hunt the berries for which Scandinavia is so justly famed. Here, the natural flora & fauna tops anything manmade; given the difficulty of growing things, people tend to plant pots. Cheerful, annual combinations predominated. I favored tarty geraniums (lipstick red or ocean coral) surrounded by deep purple lobelia. The cool, wet summers so saturate colors, I wanted to paint myself in petals.

[Now for the inevitable aside on eating, for what would travel be without…except perhaps if you are Bill Gates touring Moscow fueled by Big Macs. Sweden’s food culture favors cold weather, brisk enough to bestow an appetite. In winter, try moose, reindeer and butter cookies. The warm months serve up salmon a thousand ways and firm, delectable North Sea shrimp; late summer heralds chanterelles, crawfish parties, and cloud berries. Year-round meals include hunks of cheese as big as early Schwarzenegger, liters of cream, gobs of butter and the occasional carrot or beet. Mustn’t forget all the occasions that call for coffee, cake, chocolate and aquavit. Special guests require smörgåstårta. [2] The Omega-3 oil plus exercise integrated into lifestyle (i.e. septuagenarians riding their bikes to the grocery store in the snow) seem to prevent the amount of obesity one would reap from that diet in the US.]

My Swedish travels included a quartet of gardening highlights: 1.) Linneas’ original botanic garden in Uppsala 2.) Gunnebo Castle and Garden just outside Gothenburg 3.) The Conservatory at the Gothenburg Botanic Garden 4.) Drottningholm Castle in Stockholm. The most fabulous non-gardening event was witnessing Verdi’s "The Scottish Play" at Dalhalla www.dalhalla.se/, a theater set in the bottom of an abandoned quarry. Imagine Macbeth’s fate reverberating off limestone cliffs that fix wo/man’s insignificance within the shadows of earth’s geological timeline.

Linnaeus www.systbot.uu.se/dept/history/linnaeus.html was the patriarch of the sexual system of nomenclature we now use to name plants. In landscaping, you must specify the botanic name (as opposed to the common name), not to one-up laypeople, but so you will get the exact plant you want. One forgets that as a medical professor in the eighteenth century, Carl von Linné used botanic cures extensively for his myriad ailments (as a patient of Homeopathic MDs, that resonated for me). After frequent and difficult travels in the nether regions of Sweden, Linnaeus took over the existing house and academic botanic garden at the University of Uppsala (1769-73). Eventually, when the botanic garden grew too large, the university moved the garden to a new location and allowed Linnaeus to retain the original plot. Of all the places I visited, Linnaeus’ personal garden moved me the most. Though its design is not exceptional, the ambiance is so powerful that the force of his genius must inhabit the place still. [3] Linnaeus divided the main area into perennials and annuals. What excited me was seeing that certain plants just recently becoming fashionable, and thus available, here in the States, inhabited his garden over two centuries ago. Also, as a fan of Astrantia major, I was delighted to see that Linnaeus favored the plant enough to dub it affectionately, "My Little Ladies."

In the countryside just beyond Gothenburg, I visited a place whose spirit reminded me of one of our national treasures: Jefferson’s Monticello. Built in the late 18th century by a most wealthy Swede, John Hall, Gunnebo is a unique, Swedish neoclassical villa. The architecture, interior design and landscapes were progressive and outstanding not just for their times, but up to the present. [4] Hall’s heir ended up destitute. The house and garden became public property and, over time, much of the grandeur and character disintegrated due to various factors.

Over the past half dozen years, with the aid of the national government and the EU, this amazing property has been in the process of restoration. Currently, the Swedish gardener, Marika Irvine, and her husband, John Irvine (an English landscape architect), continue to accomplish extraordinary changes in the garden and greenhouse. They pay remarkable attention not just to horticultural and design detail, but to Gunnebo’s soul. Many plants have been painstakingly rejuvenated, especially a linden hedge, and are exquisitely maintained. Hardscape has been reclaimed from years of acid rain. The kitchen garden not only provides superb fare for the restaurant, but also, is gorgeous enough to grace an artist’s palette. [5] And the newly constructed greenhouse (built from original and incomplete plans) is a marvel of science and horticulture. [6]

Inside, Marika allows her children to maintain an heirloom pelargonium (scented geranium) each while she cultivates seed and maintains exotic species. Outside, she is in the process of reclaiming land that had been built over with service buildings. Pigs have done the initial job of aerating and fertilizing, potatoes will be grown next, and after that, a different crop. Despite these wonders, they struggle with staff shortages. Any Master Gardeners want to volunteer a season in her garden? www.gunneboslott.se No matter the size or quality, I am always curious to visit other botanic gardens, arboretums and conservatories. It always makes me grateful for what we Chicagoans do have, inspired about what we could have and aware of what I should appreciate elsewhere and not covet. The Gothenburg Botanic Garden w3.goteborg.se/botaniska/ induced all these responses. My favorite part was its Conservatory. Best among those exotic rooms were the habitats featuring carnivorous plants. It’s hard not to anthropomorphize the fantastic shapes and activities consuming space and breath under glass. [7]I took half of my photographs in the Conservatory where a great sense of humor predominated.

Pomp and circumstance better describe what has been since 1981, the Swedish royal residence: Drottningholm Castle. Originally built for a 16th century queen, it is located on a stunning island site in the archipelago to which Stockholm belongs. Of course, you arrive by boat. The 17th century castle and gardens resemble Versailles; an English style park was added a century later. While I tend to go gaga over Gaudi, three landscape elements at Drottningholm moved me. Most remarkable, some of the countless Linden allees include three hundred-year-old trees planted when the castle was rebuilt following a fire. Maintaining the Lindens is a huge challenge. Not only is the history and science compelling, but also, these trees have character! As well, expert water features punctuate the gardens. [8]

Not having perpetuated monarchies (although we may be living through one currently), our country doesn’t have too many places like these (think Vanderbilt or Getty). This, it’s a treat to hear these fountains and to watch their elegant arches of spray: www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Cabana/2973/Scandinavia/Drot.html Most inviting, Drottningholm boasts a whimsical side. A short walk from the main residence stands a compound of magical buildings called the Kina Slott. This place is a great example of chinoiserie and its more human scale made it more fun and approachable than the castle.
For me, the great gift of traveling lies in its ability to place my daily reality in a broader context. Whether that’s landscaping, food or politics, I always return with my vision enlarged. Of course, soon enough, the eyes become wide shut as usual and it’s time to leave home again in order to gain perspective. ::